Mushroom Risotto

Mushroom risotto.

I’m starting to tire of the word ‘weatherbomb’. Yesterday it was discussed ad nauseum by my colleagues:  What would happen to the transport? How would we get to work? Would we be able to travel at Christmas? Et cetera.

I’ve seen the pictures of the huge waves in Blackpool and the snow-covered roads in the north of England; but here in London it is still a balmy 10º.  I haven’t even put my gloves on yet, and yesterday I ate lunch outside. Funnily enough, the ridiculousness of the weatherbomb was the topic of conversation as I sat on the steps of UCLU and ate street food from Baba G’s with my friend Jon.  I had a tandoori chicken burger, in case you’re interested, and it was pretty good.  My only regret was not ordering the masala fries.

Tandoori chicken burger from Baba G’s at KERB UCLU.

For the past couple of years, it hasn’t really got that cold in London:  it’s been a while since we had any snow. I walk out of the flat in the morning, preparing myself for those sub-zero winds that blast along station platforms or that particular kind of freezing rain that lashes at your face; and instead it’s just a little bit nippy.  The nights are cold, granted, but there has to be something particularly fun to be worth leaving the house for.

The lack of arctic weather in the capital has not halted my enthusiasm for comfort food.  Not in the least.

Much like myself, you have probably had mushroom risotto many, many times. The stalwart of vegetarian set menus across the land, I have had the good, the bad and the ugly of them.  That being said, it is probably the dish I have cooked most often over the years.  It’s quick, easy, inexpensive and, best of all, enormously comforting.

The most important thing about cooking risotto is getting the rice just right: too hard and it’s inedible, too soft and it turns to mush.  The Kitchn published this useful ‘smear test’ (a bit of an offputting name, but it does best describe the process) for checking the rice is done.  Tasting, of course, also works, but you could end up with uncooked rice wedged into your teeth, which is pretty unpleasant.

You can include more or less any mushrooms you like in a mushroom risotto, but my favourite are dried porcini, chestnut and shiitake.  The porcini, soaked in boiling water, give that intense umami flavour it is difficult to achieve with fresh mushrooms alone. The woodiness of the chestnut mushrooms and the slippery texture of the shiitake make it far more interesting than just using button mushrooms alone. On occasion I have used oyster mushrooms if I can get them.

There are two additional ingredients that I can’t do without:  a little splash of truffle oil and a big handful of parmesan.  If what they say is true and the weather is getting colder, a little extra ‘insulation’ may do you good.

Mushroom Risotto

15g dried porcini mushrooms
Olive oil
250g chestnut mushrooms, sliced
250g shitake mushrooms, sliced
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
250g arborio rice
125ml white wine
750ml vegetable stock
Sea salt and black pepper
Knob of butter
A couple of drops of truffle oil
Handful grated parmesan
Finely chopped rosemary and parmesan shavings, to serve

Put the dried porcini in a bowl and cover with boiling water.  Set aside for 15 minutes until the mushrooms are tender.  Drain and roughly chop the mushrooms, reserving the water.

Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan, or chef’s pan, and saute the mushrooms until tender.  Set aside on a plate.

In the same pan, heat a little more olive oil and cook the onion and garlic over a medium heat until soft and translucent but not browned.  About 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir it to coat in the oil.

Turn up the heat and add the white wine, allow it to bubble up and cook until it is almost evaporated.  Repeat this process with the reserved porcini water. Stir in the mushrooms.

Start to add the stock, a ladle at a time, stirring constantly.  Do not add the next ladle of stock until the previous one has evaporated.  Keep adding the stock until the rice is al dente, or cooked to the consistency that you like.

Remove from the heat and season.  Stir in the butter, truffle oil and parmesan and leave to stand for a couple of minutes.  Serve in bowls topped with the chopped rosemary and parmesan shavings.

Serves four.